0–10V dimming interfaces

What to look for

• The drivers are actually 0–10V. A phase-cut dimmer and a digital addressable bus are different systems. The interface and the driver have to speak the same one.
• Current. Each driver on the pair draws or supplies a small current. The interface has to be rated for the number of drivers on that run, not just one fixture.
• Sink versus source. Many commercial drivers sink current and expect the control to source it. Some products are built the other way. If the directions do not match, the lights will not dim.
• What the box is. A wall slider, a panel output, and a small interface module are different parts. Buy the one that fits where the signal starts.
• Low-end behavior. A minimum level, or a low-end trim, keeps LEDs from flickering or dropping out at the bottom of the slider.
• Wiring. The control pair is Class 2, separate from line voltage, and it is polarity-sensitive. The pair is often violet and gray. Swapping the leads makes the dimming run backwards or not at all.

Common mistakes

• Connecting a 0–10V control to phase-cut or digital drivers and expecting them to dim.
• Landing the low-voltage pair in the same conductors as the line voltage, or ignoring polarity.
• Overloading one output with more drivers than its current rating allows.
• Expecting individual fixture addresses or failure reports. 0–10V dims the whole group together and does not talk back.
• No low-end trim, so the bottom of the range flickers or pops off.
• Assuming every 0–10V product sources current. Check sink versus source on both the control and the driver.

Shop 0–10V dimming on eBay

General buying advice only. This guide does not speak for any manufacturer, and it names no brands or part numbers. The shop is separate.

Related lessons

• 0–10V vs Phase-Cut Dimming
• DALI vs 0–10V Dimming
• Why LEDs Flicker on a Dimmer